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Campers Village
Calgary
7208 Macleod Trail SE
Calgary, Alberta
Canada T2H 0L9

Phone
403.252 3338
1.888.231.4753

Campers Village
Edmonton West

10951 -170 Street
Edmonton, Alberta
Canada T5P 4V6

Phone
780.484-2700
1.800.661.3847

Campers Village
Edmonton South

3235 Calgary Trail
Edmonton, Alberta
Canada T6J 5X8

Phone
780.479.CAMP
1-888-479-CAMP

 

 

 

The ‘How to’ for Pole Repairs
By Cam Johnson

Please use caution when doing these repairs. Recognize that there is the risk of burning oneself or getting fibreglass slivers, etc. Campers Village is not responsible for any injury incurred as a result of performing your own pole repairs (whether you use our instructions or not).

Note: There is always the option of purchasing a new set (or part of a set) of poles if it’s warranted. If they’re lost, what else can you do?! Whatever the case, work smarter, not harder; ask a friendly village person for the low down, and they’ll gladly help you out.
There are three things that can happen to your fibreglass tent pole that necessitates repairs.

1. The fibreglass section breaks (either right in two or lengthwise), or the section cracks and bends near the end.

2. The metal piece (the ferrule) breaks or bends.

3. The shock-cord that holds the sections together breaks, frays, or loses its elasticity.

Replacing Broken Pole Sections
Fixing broken sections of fibreglass poles is surprisingly easy!

Required Materials
• Knife or scissors
• One or two clamps (spring loaded or vice-grips): two makes things easier, but only one is necessary
• Hack saw
• File
• Table vice (optional)

Step-By-Step Procedure

1. Start by preparing a pole section of the same width and length. Measure length from the middle of the ferrule to the end of the pole and measure the diameter with a micrometer (usually in millimetres but sometimes also in calibre (fraction of an inch in thousandths)).

a. To cut a pole down to size, (this is where the table vice may come in handy) score around the circumference of the section using a hack saw. This is done to prevent the pole from splitting as there is a shell surrounding the softer core. Cut the remainder of the way through the pole.

b. Use the file to round the edge of the pole and remove all burrs and splinters; this prevents the poles from snagging and catching your tent and shock cord, and also makes working with the poles much more pleasant!

2. Next you’re going to disassemble the pole to get at the broken section(s). Look at the sections on either end of the pole. The section with fewer open-ended ferrules is the one you will remove.

a. Pull as much shock-cord as possible from the end of the pole that you won’t be disassembling into the end that you will be disassembling and put the clamp between the broken section and the last good section.

b. Now undo the knot at the end of the pole that you’re going to disassemble. If the knot is inside an open-ended ferrule, you can use tiny pliers to get it out or you can force the knot out by pushing the shock-cord from the other end; or, if the knot is inside a pointed steel cap (or a rounded rubber one) which is held on by hot glue. (This hot glue is another business that I’ll address in the ‘Replacing a Damaged Ferrule’ section). You can just cut the cord next to the knot, that way you’ll get a clean end to feed through later.

c. Next pull all the sections up to and including the broken one off of the shock-cord.

3. Now reassemble the pole by threading the good sections on to the shock-cord (we chose that end of the pole to disassemble earlier so that we wouldn’t have to thread into the ferrule now.) About every two sections or so you’ll have to stretch the shock-cord in the sections you just put on and clamp it so you’ll have enough to comfortably get to the end. When you get to the end, re-tie the knot and re-attach the end cap if there was one.

Replacing a Damaged Ferrule
This problem is less likely than a damaged fibreglass section to occur, but hey, it happens.

Required Materials
• Spring loaded clamp or vice grips
• Pliers or table vice
• Replacement ferrule.
• Propane or butane torch
• Hot glue or glue-gun

Step-By-Step Procedure

1. The first step is to get to the pole section with the damaged ferrule. Follow the same procedure as in fixing a damaged section step.

2. Ensure that your replacement ferrule is the right size to fit your pole; to assess the proper size you can compare the size to the ones already on your pole, measure with a micrometer or try fitting the ferrule on an open end of the pole.

3.The ferrules are held on by hot glue.

a. To remove the ferrule you’ll first need to heat the ferrule using your torch so that the glue melts or softens and you can slide the ferrule off using your pliers or table vice. Heating the ferrule for the right amount of time can be a bit of an art but the easiest solution for this problem is to heat the ferrule for short periods of time and try to pull it off. Be careful; if the ferrule isn’t hot enough it won’t slide off the pole, but if the ferrule becomes too hot it is possible to melt or burn the fibreglass underneath the ferrule.

4. At this point we glue on the replacement ferrule.

a. Start by cleaning off any glue residue left on the pole.

b. Next apply some hot glue right near the end of the pole. You don’t need glue everywhere because the glue will slide down the pole when the ferrule is put on.

c. Now slide the ferrule onto the end over the hot glue. Tap the ferrule on the ground or with a hammer to ensure that the ferrule is all the way on the pole. Ferrules are crimped in the middle so that they don’t slide on to the pole too far, so hammer away.

5. Last, reassemble the pole as we did in Step 3 of Fixing a Damaged Fibreglass Section.

Replacing Damaged Shock-Cord
This is the easiest fix of all the things that can go wrong with your tent pole.

Required Materials
• Shock-cord
• Spring loaded clamp or vice grips

Step-By-Step Procedure

1. You know your shock-cord needs to be replaced when

a. It’s broken

b. The sheath is fraying

c. It seems to have lost its elasticity

2. Start by measuring your pole.

a. Measure the entire length of your tent pole and multiply that length by 0.8. That’s the length of relaxed shock-cord you’ll need to put in your pole. The shock-cord is shorter than the complete pole because the shock-cord needs to be tight, otherwise the pole will fall apart easily when you are setting up your tent.

b. Choose the thickest shock-cord that you can fit inside of your pole, the thicker the better, but if it’s too thick it will be a pain to thread through the pole.

3. Remove the old shock-cord from your pole

a. You might need to remove end-caps.

4. Now we’re going to install the new shock-cord

a. Begin by tying a knot in one end of the cord. Something bigger than a half-hitch but not too big.

b. Thread the other end into one end of your pole. It’s easiest to thread the cord into the section that has (had) two ferrules or a ferrule and an end-cap on it. That’s because you can thread the cord directly into the pole instead of through the ferrule then into the pole.

c. About every two sections you’ll need to stretch as much cord as possible out of the sections you just threaded and clamp the cord off to allow for enough excess cord to get to the end comfortably.

d. Tie a knot in the other end of the pole.

5. Re-glue the end caps if you had to remove some earlier.


Happy Camping!

Sleeping Bag Care Tips

Quick points

• Storing your sleeping bag in a stuff sack will break down the insulation. Make sure your bag is completely dry before storing. Place it loosely in a large cotton storage bag, hang it, or store it flat.

• Frequent washing of your sleeping bag is unnecessary and can compromise the loft of your bag. Keep your sleeping bag clean by using a liner or wearing clean clothing to bed. This prevents the need for washing which can decrease the bags loft.

• Wash your bag in a front loader washing machine and use a mild soap, as detergents can leave a residue. Never dry-clean your bag.

General Care & Storage

One of the best things you can do for your bag is to store it in a cool, dry place. Compression stuff sacks are great for minimizing bulk in your pack, but NEVER store your bag in one. Storing your bag compressed in its stuff sack will prevent your bag from coming to its full loft. When you arrive home from a trip, air out the bag inside-out for a couple days to make sure it's dry. Then store in a large cotton storage sack—these are often included when you purchase a sleeping bag, but also available separately. Watertight storage bags aren’t suitable for sleeping nags. Condensation can build up inside them and result in mildew. You can also hang your bag in a closet or stretch it out under a bed.

An ounce of prevention…

Any time you wash a sleeping bag, you subject it to wear and tear and this can decrease the loft a little. Spot cleaning the shell with a paste of non-detergent laundry soap, water and a toothbrush is advised before washing the whole thing. You’ll find that the area of your sleeping bag that needs the most cleaning is around the hood and collar where hair and skin oils tend to accumulate. By holding the shell or liner fabric away from the insulation, you can wash and rinse the area without getting the inside wet.

If you find that your bag is losing loft, is darkened with grime and basically no longer inhabitable unless you wash it, it’s a good time to wash it!

Washing Dry cleaning is not appropriate for sleeping bags, especially those filled with down. Solvents used in dry cleaning can strip the natural oils from down that help it retain loft. Solvents are also very difficult to remove from synthetic insulation. When you wash your bag, use a gentle, non-detergent soap such as Granger’s Down Wash or Zero or some other cleanser made for washing down and synthetic filled items. If you machine wash your sleeping bag, use a front-loading washer. Never use an agitator-style machine as the motion can damage the stitching and insulation. Make sure to wash on the gentle cycle in cool water. Use the extra spin cycle to remove excess water. Also, check the machine for sharp edges and metal burrs that can damage a sleeping bags shell fabric. Another option is hand-washing in a bathtub. Fill the tub with warm water and add one of the above-recommended cleaners. Put the bag in and gently work in the soap, then allow it to soak for 15 minutes. Drain the tub and press out any remaining water. In a cold-water rinse, work the soap out gently; let the bag sit for 15 minutes and drain. Press out any remaining water. Repeat the rinse until all the soap is out.

Drying Air drying is the ideal way to dry your bag, but does take the most amount of time. If you tumble dry your bag, use very low heat or a no-heat setting. Add a couple of clean tennis balls when the bag is nearly dry. This will help restore the loft by breaking up any clumps of insulation. Ensure there are no logos or markings on the tennis balls that could rub off onto your bag.

Other tips:

Restoring DWR The original Durable Water Repellent finish on a sleeping bag's shell plays a role in keeping your bag clean. This finish eventually wears off, but you can easily reapply it by using one of several products available for this specific process. We like Granger’s Wash-in or Spray-On (for targeting specific regions) Waterproofing for Synthetic Fabrics.

Down Leaks Many down bags feature "down-proof" liners and shells made of very tightly woven fabrics which prevent the down from getting through. It’s normal for a few feathers to escape along the seams or through the shell or liner of your bag. The sharp quills of the feathers may poke through, especially when the bag is new and the down hasn't totally settled. Work the feathers gently back inside, pulling from the opposite side; the holes should be minimal and will close back up.

Fabric Tears For small holes or tears in the sleeping bag shell, a patch of nylon repair tape will do the trick until you get home.

Broken Zipper Campers Village has an in-house repair centre than can replace or fix broken zippers. Call 1.888.231.4753 in Calgary or 1.800.661.3847 in Edmonton for estimates.
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